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History, You, and Your Camera

Early on in my photography career, not sure what I was doing, yet knowing I both enjoyed it and had an aptitude for it, I began shooting my own brand development images for my Surf themed company on a Minolta system. Both on land and in the water. Larry Moore who would become my editor at Surfing took me aside and explained the significance of building a body of work over the arc of a career lifespan. He explained what a library was, and how to set a bar on my work, in order that I might become an image

My Truth

Any Organization or person which stands in an effort to accomplish something of merit or value, must predicate it’s existence on belief. Some call this belief system: “Our Truth”. Recently I watched as one of the companies I am a part of, had it’s leadership disappear and not only jeopardize the organization, but potentially engage in some actions which could cost a lot of lives and careers. The person is doing what I call “Flailing” which is sort of like beating the air with your arms as you head for the bottom of a fall which you embarked upon when

Two

This is the second installment in this series on many loves. It is about Surfing. Not many people know exactly why they surf. It just is what they do. Surfing gives a lot to the participant. It often gets to the point of seeming to be a greedy avocation. The more you get, the better you become at it, the more that it drives you. I have surfed all of my life. My Dad tossed me in a pool at 4. I swam. He then taught me to bodysurf. I never looked back. Only forward. It is still that way

Rinse and Repeat

I have had to watch weather a bit more closely than I usually would this season, because Garrett MacNamara, K38 Rescue, and a few other pals of mine are involved in big wave events and have sort of sucked me into the preparation that goes into being in the right place on the right day. We are in the midst of an El Nino season. No doubt about that now. So when the murmers about a potential swell maker began to filter through, I forced myself to take a close look at available weather telemetry and began my process of

World Oceans Day

I awoke late this Sunny Sunday, having spent the night wrapping a job on the computer and getting to sleep at 6:30 AM. I pulled myself away from my girlfriend Donna who was doing her best imitation of a dead woman at 9:15 am. I had some coffee and rolled down the valley into downtown Ventura for a haircut appointment at 10:00 am with my Samoan pal Danny Moa. By twelve, after we had rapped out and talked a lot of story and I stood squinting in the broad light of high noon, I felt different. It wasn’t the haircut.

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