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Bluebirds

Bluebirds are moments in time when the magical intersects with the mortal, and in process, one’s grasp of one’s ability, is re-defined. A Bluebird moment is about education, preparation, trial and conquest. I have had a few of these in my lifetime. Here is  an account of one of them. I began my pilgrimages to the North Shore of Oahu late in my Surfing life. As a young Pro, it was basically part of the ritual of a Surfing Education, that you go there and test your ability. Though I always sort of sucked at tests in school, I seem

World Oceans Day

I awoke late this Sunny Sunday, having spent the night wrapping a job on the computer and getting to sleep at 6:30 AM. I pulled myself away from my girlfriend Donna who was doing her best imitation of a dead woman at 9:15 am. I had some coffee and rolled down the valley into downtown Ventura for a haircut appointment at 10:00 am with my Samoan pal Danny Moa. By twelve, after we had rapped out and talked  a lot of story and I stood squinting in the broad light of high noon, I felt different. It wasn’t the haircut.

Garrett MacNamara

I just got off the phone with Garrett MacNamara. Garrett, or Gmac as he is known, has a reputation for being the most extreme of the extreme in surfing. The first time I met him was at Jaws at the  first World Tow In Championships which he won, surfing with Ikaika Kalama I believe. Garrett had needed a shot for an advertisement for a new line of standup paddleboards he is endorsing. I had to go looking for the image and reprocess the Raw file. What I saw in the data  sort of surprised me. The day of this shot

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Bluebirds

Bluebirds are moments in time when the magical intersects with the mortal, and in process, one’s grasp of one’s ability, is re-defined. A Bluebird moment is about education, preparation, trial and conquest. I have had a few of these in

World Oceans Day

I awoke late this Sunny Sunday, having spent the night wrapping a job on the computer and getting to sleep at 6:30 AM. I pulled myself away from my girlfriend Donna who was doing her best imitation of a dead

Garrett MacNamara

I just got off the phone with Garrett MacNamara. Garrett, or Gmac as he is known, has a reputation for being the most extreme of the extreme in surfing. The first time I met him was at Jaws at the