Posts Tagged ‘The Surfers Path’

Earth Angel

Friday, March 5th, 2010


angel |ˈānjəl|
1. a spiritual being believed to act as an attendant, agent, or messenger of God.

“So let the Earth give testimony.”

I was raised in Santa Barbara. Most of my earliest and therefore strongest influences, were based on my native Hawaiian Culture’s perception of man’s place in the world, and the catch all of SB culture’s budding eco consciousness, and the science based tenets of our University and College.

But one of the most basic of principals, and something upon which my work is founded, came not from my social and cultural mores, it actually was planted in me at conception. No one really understands how life generates. For lack of any more accurate descriptive terminology, we call the impetus that creates life, the hand of God.

Man is unique in all that walks, swims and flies the Earth. He has a level of power to affect his environment. He is a minor architect fashioned in facsimile to a grand Architect. It is why we are so cognizant of beauty, and as our culture grows away from its native tribal roots, where we lived close to the land, this beauty can serve to bring our attention back to our primary essence. That is a very important aspect to having a healthy culture and society.

We reside in the most complex of systems. Recently, man has developed a computer that has exceeded the computational power of the human brain. We are capable of affecting Spaceship Earth either in a positive, or negative manner on a greater level than ever before in our history.

We parachute into this spinning, wonderous blue ball, and become someone.

Then we leave, small and great.  Each one of us has that in common.

The Earth was made for us. As a citizen of this place, residing in a country whose very Constitution recognizes the tenet of being under God, I have a great respect for our responsibility to reflect and nurture through stewardship, this amazing planet.

But here is the really great thing about this place: it goes on, whether we affect it positively or not. That is how God designed it. The Earth gives a living testimony to His Sovereignty.  Science bases much on the Law of Entropy, which is the progression of things towards disorder. Mankind is one of the only creatures that I am aware of, that can actually have some affect on Entropy, yet true affect is relatively minor, when put in a global scale, or geological timeline, for humanity.

But whether we choose to act as responsible passengers or not, the spaceship will arrive somewhere some day, with an entirely new crew.  So what is important to you? How do you fit in? What is your role?  In a season, there will be new flowers growing. Each a blossom unto itself.

Here is a link to a demo reel that I did awhile back. It is very illustrative of our Earth.

It pays to know who is in charge.  All the rest is just the short strokes.

U2 and Greenday: Getting it done. The saints are coming. And if that was not enough. Eno and U2 with One. Amazingly on point.

David Fortson of Loatree motivated this post. He is a catalyst for change and sustainable thinking.



Click on any of the images in the Gallery for a larger view. I did this edit as an Earthday Homage. It is a sliver of what I see, in any given moment, in my passage on this ship.


Thursday, May 21st, 2009


Connectedness |kəˈnɛktədnəs| noun
ORIGIN late Middle English (in the sense [be united physically] ; rare before the 18th cent.): from Latin connectere, from con- ‘together’ + nectere ‘bind.’

Drew Kampion, co editor of The Surfers Path, to which I am a long time contributor, had dropped a simple note via the inet clothesline: “Hey I cannot believe you have not met Mark Gray, you two have so much in common. Mark meet Dave, Dave, Mark. He is coming down to Sacred Craft.”

Scott Bass, my friend and colleague from Surfer Magazine has formulated a unique cultural event based around the Surfboard as a cultural anchor in society. I was invited to attend. The event is the antithesis of the industry standard: Action Sports Retailer trade show. For when you walk in the door of one of his shows, you experience surfing itself, not some marketing generated facade of what surfing became after it was prostituted to social death. He calls it Sacred Craft. Brilliant concept.

My son Josh, a neophyte music producer, had told me that he and his younger brother Jon, would be performing at the Good Bar on Main St downtown. He calls his current project, Loves Secret Domain.

Jeanette Ortiz (one of my regular models) is soon leaving to study in Spain. Her Mom has a company called Reigns of Hope which I am going to be shooting this week and needed to do locations work for. Time for a family portrait.

A pal had caught up with me earlier this week and asked, “Hey are you coming to the bike race Saturday?” Bike Race?

I grew up as a surfer in Goleta. Graduating over the years from ruining the floor of my parents garage as I built surfboards for family and friends from the age of 12, to my final exodus out of board building at 40 having built close to 40,000 of the things. I competed and surfed the world as a Santa Barbara based professional surfer and board builder.  Roots run deep there. My friends and surf family have literally built the sport and industry.

My other life and world, and where I was allowed and yes, encouraged to be an aggressive type A personality, was in racing, both cars and bikes. I had morphed from competitive swimmer to cyclist at the age of 17 and went into the Olympics Development program. I  actually had two fruitful cycling careers where, largely due to my team, the Santa Barbara Bike Club, I won a fair amount. Though I would no more consider racing a bike today than I would paddling out at third reef anywhere in Hawaii, I have a strong affinity for the people and cachet of both worlds.

Mark Gray arrived and due to a depth of life experience and commonality of interests and manner of approach, we had time tripped the weekend away. He recounted exploits in Japan and beyond and I had  side barred all over the darned map. Our time together caused a flow back and forth that literally felt as if we had been softly thumbing through the pages of the book of our lives. Two live wires  united, for a time.

Connectedness. We could all use a dose. In a time when markets fail,  as things may grow increasingly uncertain, being connected is vitality.

A VERY well produced video that espouses and utilizes connectedness is here. It is from FORD. Yes, that’s right!

An excellent blog by Seth Godin on marketing intolerance and connection is here.

Between The Lines, Scott Bass’ and Ty Ponders amazing film on surfers, war and generational connectedness is here.

There are many things which may keep someone from connecting. Life’s trials and tempo, hardship, insecurity, feelings of inadequacy.  But the primary element and ultimately a conductant, is to love em all, both those that do, and those that cannot: connect.

Any image in this blog is a tale unto itself. But as a collage it is a stream of consciousness that today flashes like cards being shuffled at the hand of an experienced dealer.

The gallery below is a sampling from the 16 gigs of camera RAW I collected in about 32 hours. Click on any of the images for a full view as well, at what may be a fascinating back story.

Bon Voyage Jeanette. Enjoy Bracelona!

© 2009 David Pu'u. All rights reserved.