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Posts Tagged ‘The Surfers Path’
Friday, March 5th, 2010
 Renewal
angel |ˈānjəl|
noun
1. a spiritual being believed to act as an attendant, agent, or messenger of God.
“So let the Earth give testimony.”
I was raised in Santa Barbara. Most of my earliest and therefore strongest influences, were based on my native Hawaiian Culture’s perception of man’s place in the world, and the catch all of SB culture’s budding eco consciousness, and the science based tenets of our University and College.
But one of the most basic of principals, and something upon which my work is founded, came not from my social and cultural mores, it actually was planted in me at conception. No one really understands how life generates. For lack of any more accurate descriptive terminology, we call the impetus that creates life, the hand of God.
Man is unique in all that walks, swims and flies the Earth. He has a level of power to affect his environment. He is a minor architect fashioned in facsimile to a grand Architect. It is why we are so cognizant of beauty, and as our culture grows away from its native tribal roots, where we lived close to the land, this beauty can serve to bring our attention back to our primary essence. That is a very important aspect to having a healthy culture and society.
We reside in the most complex of systems. Recently, man has developed a computer that has exceeded the computational power of the human brain. We are capable of affecting Spaceship Earth either in a positive, or negative manner on a greater level than ever before in our history.
We parachute into this spinning, wonderous blue ball, and become someone.
Then we leave, small and great. Each one of us has that in common.
The Earth was made for us. As a citizen of this place, residing in a country whose very Constitution recognizes the tenet of being under God, I have a great respect for our responsibility to reflect and nurture through stewardship, this amazing planet.
But here is the really great thing about this place: it goes on, whether we affect it positively or not. That is how God designed it. The Earth gives a living testimony to His Sovereignty. Science bases much on the Law of Entropy, which is the progression of things towards disorder. Mankind is one of the only creatures that I am aware of, that can actually have some affect on Entropy, yet true affect is relatively minor, when put in a global scale, or geological timeline, for humanity.
But whether we choose to act as responsible passengers or not, the spaceship will arrive somewhere some day, with an entirely new crew. So what is important to you? How do you fit in? What is your role? In a season, there will be new flowers growing. Each a blossom unto itself.
Here is a link to a demo reel that I did awhile back. It is very illustrative of our Earth.
It pays to know who is in charge. All the rest is just the short strokes.
U2 and Greenday: Getting it done. The saints are coming. And if that was not enough. Eno and U2 with One. Amazingly on point.
David Fortson of Loatree motivated this post. He is a catalyst for change and sustainable thinking.
 Angel
Click on any of the images in the Gallery for a larger view. I did this edit as an Earthday Homage. It is a sliver of what I see, in any given moment, in my passage on this ship.
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- Renewal
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- Angel
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- Homage
Sean Tully. Artistic interpretive homage.
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- woman having fun at a remote beach in Central California
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- girls_surf.tif
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- Pu'u_78.tif
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- 2 trees sunrise
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- ventura scenic
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- ventura scenic
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- Cerulean Angel
A Corbis image I shot with a bunch a close freinds collaborating
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- Hailey and the Spinners
Kona Coast. I think they liked her.
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- Contact
Every girls dream.
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- Impending Storm
Tamarind Bay, from our Good Friend Blackie's resort.
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- Steinbeck Country
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- Rise
Mermaid Hannah Rastovich. Maldives.
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- Surfer/Artist Sean Tully glides on the nose near his home in Ventura, Ca
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- Rincon Sunset
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- Gaviota Coastline
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- Brendan White: Gold Glide
Tags: angel, Brian Eno with U2, Corbis Images, cultural responsibility, david pu'u photography, david puu cinematography, Deep, Earth Day, eco conciousness, eco lifestyle, ecology, environmental imagery, environmentalism, globalism, God, greenday, Hailey Partridge, Hannah Frasier, Hans Rathje, Kathe DeFiori, Mary Osborne, messenger, natural order, nature, Santa Barbara, Santa Barbara Photographers, Sean Tully, social responsibility, social sustainability, Surfer magazine, surfing, sustainable, The Surfers Journal, The Surfers Path, Tiare Friedman, U2 Posted in Uncategorized | 8 Comments »
Thursday, May 21st, 2009
 Connected
Connectedness |kəˈnɛktədnəs| noun
ORIGIN late Middle English (in the sense [be united physically] ; rare before the 18th cent.): from Latin connectere, from con- ‘together’ + nectere ‘bind.’
Drew Kampion, co editor of The Surfers Path, to which I am a long time contributor, had dropped a simple note via the inet clothesline: “Hey I cannot believe you have not met Mark Gray, you two have so much in common. Mark meet Dave, Dave, Mark. He is coming down to Sacred Craft.”
Scott Bass, my friend and colleague from Surfer Magazine has formulated a unique cultural event based around the Surfboard as a cultural anchor in society. I was invited to attend. The event is the antithesis of the industry standard: Action Sports Retailer trade show. For when you walk in the door of one of his shows, you experience surfing itself, not some marketing generated facade of what surfing became after it was prostituted to social death. He calls it Sacred Craft. Brilliant concept.
My son Josh, a neophyte music producer, had told me that he and his younger brother Jon, would be performing at the Good Bar on Main St downtown. He calls his current project, Loves Secret Domain.
Jeanette Ortiz (one of my regular models) is soon leaving to study in Spain. Her Mom has a company called Reigns of Hope which I am going to be shooting this week and needed to do locations work for. Time for a family portrait.
A pal had caught up with me earlier this week and asked, “Hey are you coming to the bike race Saturday?” Bike Race?
I grew up as a surfer in Goleta. Graduating over the years from ruining the floor of my parents garage as I built surfboards for family and friends from the age of 12, to my final exodus out of board building at 40 having built close to 40,000 of the things. I competed and surfed the world as a Santa Barbara based professional surfer and board builder. Roots run deep there. My friends and surf family have literally built the sport and industry.
My other life and world, and where I was allowed and yes, encouraged to be an aggressive type A personality, was in racing, both cars and bikes. I had morphed from competitive swimmer to cyclist at the age of 17 and went into the Olympics Development program. I actually had two fruitful cycling careers where, largely due to my team, the Santa Barbara Bike Club, I won a fair amount. Though I would no more consider racing a bike today than I would paddling out at third reef anywhere in Hawaii, I have a strong affinity for the people and cachet of both worlds.
Mark Gray arrived and due to a depth of life experience and commonality of interests and manner of approach, we had time tripped the weekend away. He recounted exploits in Japan and beyond and I had side barred all over the darned map. Our time together caused a flow back and forth that literally felt as if we had been softly thumbing through the pages of the book of our lives. Two live wires united, for a time.
Connectedness. We could all use a dose. In a time when markets fail, as things may grow increasingly uncertain, being connected is vitality.
A VERY well produced video that espouses and utilizes connectedness is here. It is from FORD. Yes, that’s right!
An excellent blog by Seth Godin on marketing intolerance and connection is here.
Between The Lines, Scott Bass’ and Ty Ponders amazing film on surfers, war and generational connectedness is here.
There are many things which may keep someone from connecting. Life’s trials and tempo, hardship, insecurity, feelings of inadequacy. But the primary element and ultimately a conductant, is to love em all, both those that do, and those that cannot: connect.
Any image in this blog is a tale unto itself. But as a collage it is a stream of consciousness that today flashes like cards being shuffled at the hand of an experienced dealer.
The gallery below is a sampling from the 16 gigs of camera RAW I collected in about 32 hours. Click on any of the images for a full view as well, at what may be a fascinating back story.
Bon Voyage Jeanette. Enjoy Bracelona!
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- Connected
Andy, Jeanette and Marie Ortiz, at Reigns of Hope in Ojai
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- LSD: Josh and Jon
ventura
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- LSD:Nick
ventura
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- LSD: Josh, Eddie and Nick
ventura
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- LSD: Nick
ventura
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- LSD: Josh
ventura
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- Ultimate Boarder booth, Sacred Craft
ventura. UB creator Tim Hoover is from Goleta and was one of our surf shop denizens. Goleta loves Tim, and the sport loves UB.
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- Paul Jenkin
Paul is Environmental Director for the Ventura Surfrider Chapter. If Al Gore won a Pulitzer for his controversial piece on Global Warming, then this man deserves a thousand of them for his tireless, science based efforts to improve his community. Connected. A hero in every sense of the word.
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- Bruce Fowler
Bruce ran Bahne Goleta then Goleta Surf N Wear. He was the inspiration for an entire generation of surfers of which I am one. We worked together for years in board manufacturing till he tried to take out a telephone pole with his head. First time I had seen him in 15 years! Sacred Craft. Connected.
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- Sam George
We have known each other since our early teens when I inadvertently took him out in my first surf contest at Secos. As competitors, colleagues and friends, we have seen a lot together.
Sam is one of the sports best assets and much of my accomplishments in the sport, industry and photography I owe to this great example of flow and enthusiasm.
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- Road Sign: Yater Sacred Craft Booth
Yater, mentor to us all. John Bradbury an inspiring thread and yes, a former glasser. Connected.
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- Dennis Ryder
One of the shapers in the Ventura Based Morey-Pope factory which produced the McTavish split vee, a design thought to be the first shortboard. Dennis walked into my surfboard shop in SB one day as he endeavored to return full time to board building. I told him about the William- Dennis shortboard I had for awhile at the age of 15 in Goleta. He was kind enough to become my laminator and has been my friend ever since. Connected.
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- Shades of Perfection: Yaters
Always the bar in ethics and craftsmanship. Sacred Craft.
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- Gerry Lopez Shaping
Some of my own outline curves and design philosophy are Gerry's via Rich Reed, ex Surfline Hawaii and Lightning Bolt shaper who showed me the virtue of the contrived straight from a Lopez template. Connected. Bobby Martinez won a plethora of National Titles on boards that I shaped him which utilized that concept as part of their design composition. Connected.
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- Randy Cone
I have known Randy since he was 12. One of the most talented to ever come out of Goleta as a surfer, shaper and waterman. We transitioned through it all and he is without a doubt the most opinionated, talented, gifted and closest friend I have had in a lifetime. I snuck up on him as he shaped his difficult draw in the event. A stringerless styro. As I saw him make a turn with the planer I quietly opened the shaping room door and screamed "CONE!" He jumped, then smiled. First time we had seen each other since Mavericks on the cliff a few years back. His Bradbury rendition was FLAWLESS. I checked. Connected.
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- Peter Townend
Competitors, friends, I had always wanted to surf against him as a Pro. So conservative, he was the antithesis of Dave Smith and I's uber radical approach. Never happened till we were old and Masters and I realized mid heat that I truly did not care if I beat him. I sat and watched instead. Responsible in large part for surfing as it is today, in greater depth than I can write here. The black dots on his face? Skin cancers just burned off. His look says it all and is why he is such an asset to surfing. Connected.
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- Craftsmanship
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- Connectedness
We have all worked with and for each other. Each person on this page.
Then there was John Bradbury. We remember him. He was us. He is us. Connected.
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- Ventura, Adopted home town
Criterium, Ventura Stage Race
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- Peloton: Connectedness
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- Human River
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- Flow Rush
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- Exhuberance
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- Interlacing
Amazing what you get with a 12 MM lens and a pan at 1/30 a second and the subject going 35 MPH. Canon 5DM2
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- Dominance
In a classic tactic this guy went away with five laps to go or thereabouts. One person managed to go with him. He dropped the guy with one lap to go and simply rode away to the win. Confidence, bravado: in racing as in life, you make your own luck. And fortune? Well she frequently favors the brave. A life lesson on a grey Sunday evening.
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- Main Street
Ventura Stage Race
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- Backfocus
Everyone always focuses on the winner. I have been where he is right now a lot. But the true story of the moment is in the dropped rider behind. Hanging on for second. The field sprinters jockeying for a shot at third in the bottom corner. Ventura looking like Europe.
Racing really IS life. This image is my best analogy. I thought about it. Canon 5DM2 and Canon 300MM F2.8 IS lens
Tags: Beach culture, best commercial ever, Canon 300mm F2.8 IS lens, Canon 5D Mark 2, Cultural Event, Dennis Ryder, Drew Kampion, Ford, Gerry Lopez, Jeanette Ortiz, Jon Pu'u, Josh Pu'u, Loves Secret Domain, LSD, Mark Grey, Paul Jenkin, Peter Townend, Randy Cone, Reigns of Hope, Sam George, Scott Bass, Seth Godin, Steve Pezman, Surfboard Industry, Surfer magazine, Surfers Journal, The Surfers Path, ventura, Ventura Chapter Surfrider, Ventura Stage Race Posted in Uncategorized | 10 Comments »
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© 2009 David Pu'u. All rights reserved. |
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