Posts Tagged ‘surfing lifestyle’

GMAC

Saturday, April 16th, 2011
GMAC

GMAC

 

Garrett MacNamara and I have been perpetually bumping into each other for over a decade now.  He and I for many years, just seemed to always be in the same place and time to see the ocean and weather coincide to produce some remarkable moments. He surfed. I shot. AFterwards we both laughed. “Wow, you were there”.

We finally exchanged phone numbers a few years back. I will not say that having the digits made things any easier to connect, but it sure makes for an extra few moments to share our very unique lives together.

I doubt that there are many watermen alive who have the good natured acumen which Garret does. Probably under 2 dozen in the world which embody the skill level, strength and aloha I have seen him demonstrate repeatedly at Jaws, Cortes Bank, Pipeline, Wiamea, Mavericks and points beyond.

He and I are team mates on K38 Rescue, a global group of ocean safety oriented rescue boat operators headed up by Shawn Alladio.

GMAC Mavs

GMAC Mavs

Garrett rang me the other day. He was passing through with Nicole and needed to borrow a wetsuit for her. He let me know he would be paddling out at the Pipe a break which I can actually see from my bedroom window. I toodled down in time to see him stroke an 8’6″ SUP into a couple.

Garrett, Afternoon Drive

Garrett, Afternoon Drive

Garrett rides every kind of board imaginable. It was funny seeing him manage the chop and confluence of a late afternoon session on such a tiny SUP. No small feat.

GMAC, Ventura

GMAC, Ventura

 

The Lineup

Tuesday, December 14th, 2010
The Lineup

The Lineup

The image above is a tight shot of the crowd in the lineup at Pipeline one day a few seasons back. Pipe is located on the North Shore of the Island of Oahu.

Generally, a lineup is a pretty near perfect example of a social and cultural hierarchy, and how those tend to stratify according to ability, dominance, and-or reputation. So surf breaks in a manner of speaking, are analogous to society at large in many ways.

And just like in land based cultures, someone always seems to come along that no one gives credence to, who through persistence, talent and ability, though seemingly stuck in the middle and not going anywhere towards being at the head of the line, is actually speeding far ahead of the rest of the group.

Those are the ones to watch.

Look closely. Choose wisely. Because who we surround ourselves with, will determine our path in life.

Imminent Demise

Imminent Demise

Seth Godin describes choice in this typically succinct blogpost here.

I met Mason Van Valin at Bullfight Studio in Santa Barbara last week as Rob Dafoe and I were working. You can see what is coming right here.

Defining Moment.

Defining Moment.

My Canon 5D Mark 2 continues to outperform any other system that I have ever used for motion and stills work. In spite of having placed it repeatedly in some rather precarious locations and circumstances.

Surfing Is

Tuesday, July 13th, 2010
David Pu'u, Self Expression

David Pu'u, Self Expression

The motivation for this piece began with the publication of the following story in the WSJ, to which I contributed an image of my girlfriend Donna Von Hoesslin. Read the comment section, post story, and you will see a diversity of opinions (including mine) that are quite revelatory about each person’s point of view regarding surfing. Those statements reveal everything about those people’s depth of involvement with the ocean. The commentary engaged me.

I have always been a surfer. At four years of age I knew that goal was what my life would be about. To know the ocean, (and to surf) became my path.

In a lifetime of study and involvement in all things water and ocean related, I learned many things about the ocean that never cease to amaze and moderate me as a human being.

Waterwoman, Hailey Partridge

Waterwoman, Hailey Partridge

Water has got to be the single greatest creative foil for mankind ever. It always wins. (You cannot compress it.) It is alive. Within it, and especially the sea, is contained the genetic signature of all life, which ever existed.

But what I find remarkable, is that as a Hawaiian, my ancestors gifted the sport, and the resulting culture that arose, for reasons many may not readily comprehend. I have long been convinced that surfing and the resulting relationship with the ocean serves to be a mirror of who and what a person is. In it, is a near perfect reflection of everybody’s true compass heading for their lives.

As I document and observe the people involved with the ocean, to me, the depth of every single human being is readily apparent by seeing how they relate to water.

In  a world of people aspiring to be called: surfers, surfriders, eco warriors, watermen, and all manner of ocean branded things, it is readily apparent, what surfing is to those people. You can always tell who really comprehends the ocean,  and whether that person is there to simply use it to brand their movement or maybe just find a means of validating themselves.

Hard to fake it with something so vital and alive as the sea. She always triumphs. Even if her own time frame is an eternal one. It is we who fade into her, and eventually she is us.

Performance as a Mirror of Involvement

Performance as a Mirror of Involvement

Seth Godin was thinking along similar lines today. His Blog.

My ancestors knew exactly what they were doing.

Like the ocean, truth is eternal.

Carmine Rush

Carmine Rush

Best to embrace it.

Elements: Blood to Bone

Monday, May 24th, 2010
Air to Water

Air to Water

Water and air. Air and water. Blood to bone. Flesh of one’s own.

The uninitiate fascinate over the sea and the creatures in it. But for a surfer, the relationship is one of kindred spirit. “Oh yes, that is”: insert marvelously made marine entity, referred to casually by those in the water tribe, in similar manner to someone whose house you wake up in each day, HERE.

Blood to Water

Blood to Water

Dolphins live a life immersed. Yet linked to air, they have little issue being up and around in it. I see them fly a lot. No doubt exists, in spite of a lack of verbal discussion between us, on that very obvious point of connection.

As surfers we live a life in air, to dip in a mirrored justaposition to our dolphin kin. Kin you ask?

Saline Soliloquy

Saline Soliloquy

At what point do animal and man become related?

Blood to bone to flesh. Salt water connects us all.

Sublime in flow.

Not alone.

One.

One

One

Cameraless

Sunday, March 21st, 2010
Matillija Spring

Matillija Spring

I was cameraless this week. It was great. Sort of. Okay, maybe not completely cameraless. I still had four 35mm stills film bodies, three mini DV cameras, and five high speed film motion cameras, all sitting on the shelf, along with the water housings for those. But I loaned my Canon 5DM2 system out and sold my Rebel T1i, in preparation for buying the new RebelT2i. (Wow, that Rebel was so new it had only seen 3000 frames before the new one was released.)

Canon (along with Apple) has been blowing my mind the past few years. We spoke, they obviously listened.  The application of technology and digital imaging, has created the ability to produce massive amounts of content. But this creates some big questions:

Where does that content go? What makes yours special? Does your content meet that unspoken, and often unseen bar of international standards?

A career is a function of time. Effort is applied and what comes out these days, is useable digital content-data. You can convert that pliable data into a variety of projects in short order.

I had an e mail tet a tet with photographer Brian Nevins this week about post production. Brian and I both share a bar that is similar for our work and subjects. “Hey Brian, how is your post production list looking?” Answer:“Oh hopeless. I just seem to keep getting further behind.” We cyber groaned in unison.

Right now, I have 7 stills shoots and 6 motion picture projects, in various stages of post production. More work is being thrown my way daily. I must be very careful, or I will find myself homeless with probably one of the most phenomenal collections of stills and motion imagery that I could ever imagine.

Why? Production is shifting. Usages are changing. Now, more than any time in History, publishing is having a demand to screen content placed upon it, that is heavier than ever. Everyone who owns a camera is a “photographer” and those voices, they all scream out “Look at me”, often without really knowing that, um, maybe you may not want to do that.

Of course some get through on occasion, by virtue of salesmanship and persistence. You can see some amazingly low bar crap go to print, web, TV, Theater or Gallery. But over all, the access to the market that the web affords and which shifts in demand have created, offers the potential to embarrass one’s self globally in a very short period of time. But what this also does, is make the truly great work stand out. A lot is on the line for publishers these days as many companies teeter. Edit staff can annihilate a publication’s value in a very short period of time.

The market is not stupid, though it can be naive. It self levels.

Authenticity, now more than ever, is the most valuable of commodities, along with content quality and validity.

Seth Godin writes here about the slush pile. That great pool of self spawned, unsolicited content. It is one of the better things I have read about being a creative, as it describes a bar, direction and potentiality measure, for content creators.

So back to my post production I go. 60 hours down this week, in front of the large 32” monitor I use. The surf was pumping. Offshore and warm. Spring has arrived overnight. Weird yet perfect for us, as this weather and swell combination combination rarely occurs this time of year. I got six calls to shoot the last few days, and wanted to.

“Sorry I loaned my cameras out” was my soft answer. Clickety clack goes the keyboard. “Save as” was selected in Photoshop about 1500 times and “Render” hit, in Final Cut, a lot. Whew. Life choices in the click of a mouse.

Here is a  piece of music which a close friend sent along. The message in it struck a deep chord with me. Southern Cross. If you read through the gallery descriptions, you may figure it out. It is descriptive of our lives, she and I. It may be said of many whose lives tie to the sea.  I cherish my friends.

The gallery below is illustrative of Spring, Diversity, and Authenticity. Click on the images for a larger view and description, if you like.

© 2009 David Pu'u. All rights reserved.

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