It is actually sort of rare for me to shoot surfing centric images. Often what is required to make a great image is even more complex than what is necessary to make a great break fire on all cylinders.
So having everything line up: talent, weather, swell, tide, attitude, schedule, is pretty rare. But when it happens. The quantity and bar of the work produced is mind blowing.
This week has been session after session.
This was yesterday.
Perfect day for what I do, when I finally¬† focus on surf.
Hans Rathje is the surfer. One of those guys who does everything well. Snowboard, BMX, Skate, Swim, a Lifeguard, and is 100 percent on point when it comes down to reading weather and swell. At 6’3″ you would never imagine how fast he is. Unusual for a big guy, that quickness.
This morning he was off. We both were. I slept in. He was off doing a swim test for his Rescue Diver Certification.
There is an amazing amount of swell and diverse weather heading in here right now. This has been quite the season.
If you get a chance read this story that I wrote which was published in Deep Magazine. Weathering Fall.
What I wrote on has come to pass. Lucky us who live round here.
The ocean is alive.