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Posts Tagged ‘Dennis Ryder’
Thursday, February 24th, 2011
 Sculptural Elements
This is number five in the series on Loves. It is actually entitled Four. (Really.) If you understand the play on words with the copy title “Fore”, well then, you “get” Art and Artists. That is a good thing. We like it when people get us. It is why artists do what they do. ART is our love.
Robb Havassy just left, after a 30 hour visit. When he had arrived, I was working through a series of images where I had been subtly taken by surprise at how the ocean had sculpted rather unique looking gems my Canon 5DM2 had managed to catch, while I happily and possibly very quickly, was ducking in to, or out of, a waterbash. (reads: having fun)
Robb fronts a huge collective of people who have several things in common. The principle of which, is that they are artists, who comprise the cultural tableau that is Surf Culture. One of the interesting things to me about Robb is his surfboard collection. I have taken to calling them bastard children. 350 surfboard sculptures produced by a Corporation, to sit in mall clothing stores across the US.
The children are copies of a surfboard Robb had left at the home of a well know photographer and friend of his. As circumstances would have it, the board was left by Robb as a sort of gift to the photographer (along with a painting) and had been used in a shoot. Then later, copied “to a T”, and placed in stores to help brand and authenticate a company whose modus was “borrowing” from surfing to brand themselves, because in fact, contrary to surf theme inspired companies, this one was completely disconnected from surfing. They were a clothing company. They do not surf nor contribute to the culture. They take. That is their History. Robb’s experience was simply one of many examples the the Company’s branding modus.
 Corporate Disclaimer
Here is the funny part. On top of coming to Ventura to hang with designer Donna Von Hoesslin and I (creative sparks fly), work on Surf Story Volume 2 (which should publish late 2011), Robb was in town to pick up the first surfboard he had ever shaped, which was produced at the shop of Dennis Ryder. (If you do not know about Dennis, you really should. Not only is he a historic figure in Ventura Surf Culture, but is a pioneer in surfboard design development.) But Robb was also getting another shaping lesson from me, and doing board# 2.

What got me excited, is that he brought two of the bastards up with him! I had never seen them. You see, Robb got those 350 surfboards back AND a small settlement in a suit against that apparel company. This was the catalyst for our meeting awhile back.
 Robb and his bastard children.
It had been the proverbial young David, taking on a sage old Goliath. Robb had used the proceeds to fund Surfstory Vol 1, his statement on the authenticity of Art and Culture. That is a done deal. But 350 bastard children remain in a storage unit in OC.
Robb, Donna and I, and now some of the leadership in Project Kaisei, have been brainstorming concepts whereby we may utilize the bastards, which could really now be construed as cultural effluent, with faux fin boxes and foam gouges where the company logo was removed, and place some value back into the world with his collection of plastic trash.
This resonates with me because I have built close to 40,000 real surfboards. That translates to 40,000 people who developed a relationship with the ocean on something my hands and heart helped conceive. These mall store boards? Though replicas of Robb’s board, they were merely store fixtures, some even with leash plugs built into odd places, to be used for tie down points as the boards sat in malls, silent icons to materialism and faux lifestyle, whispering sweet lies to all who admired what they thought that the bastards stood for. The irony of this hit me instantly when first I heard about Robb. Surfboards are symbolic of people- surfers. They are meant to be magic carpet vehicles to adventure in a watery wonderland.
We became fast friends of course. All of us.
But that is Art, and why Art, is one of my many loves.
 Cosmos
Seth Godin has this to say about Art, Artists and Artistry. Simple brilliance. His Art inspires me.
Richard Lang is one of the many bright lights, who as an artist, is collaborating with us on Project Kaisei, plastics awareness, and changing the world through Art. Here is a fantastic video which illustrates how he and his wife Judith do that.
Art is for everybody and can be produced by anyone. Here is a great example of that.
The imagery below in the gallery is a small sample of a collection of refuse. I say trash, because I had overlooked these images in first edit of the collection I just built here in Ventura, California, in what may be a historic benchmark for the ocean this Jan-February, 2011.
I did not frame or intend to build these. They just happened as a result of an accord between perfect meteorological conditions, pristine ocean, and me swimming 57 times with my camera in 34 days. Spawn of my world.
Click on any of the images to toggle through as a slide show. Foreward!
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- Sculptural Elements
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- Robb and his bastard children.
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- Corporate Disclaimer
Replete with Faux fin boxes and a disclaimer. Robb Havassy holding one of the recovered boards.
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- Cosmos
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- Corporate Disclaimer
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- Not so Fantastic Plastic



Tags: Art, Art History, authenticity, Betty B, branding, Canon 5D Mark2, conservation, Dennis Ryder, Donna Von Hoesslin, Environmental awareness, MOMA SF, North Pacific Gyre, ocean art, One Plastic Beach, Plastic garbage patch, Plastics, Project Kaisei, Richard Lang, Robb Havassy, Seth Godin, Surf Art, surf culture, Surf Story, Surf Story Vol 2, surfboard building, surfboards, sustainable change, The Betty Blog, ventura, ventura artists, Ventura Surf Culture, waves, where is Matt?, working artists Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment »
Friday, April 23rd, 2010
 Sacred Craft
This morning I woke up from a nightmare-dream at 3:30 am. In the dream I was glossing boards, and had lost the hot batch of finishing resin. I found it in the nick of time, and was just completing the last board as it went off. I even had the acrid smell of an over catalyzed hot batch in my nostrils as I hopped out of bed and felt my feet hit cool wood floor in the blackness. Yeesh, surfboard subliminals. I built surfboards for about 20 years. They have been on my mind a lot lately, obviously.
What makes a thing sacred is found in the root meaning of the very word. Sacred refers to the setting apart of something for a special purpose. So it follows that Scott Bass would call his surf culture show which retains primary focus on the surfboard and it’s creators, Sacred Craft.
Yesterday I saw an un named shot of an old guy at the Sacred Craft tribute, which was held in Ventura at The Fairgrounds April 10th and 11th and that honored one of the surfboard industry’s founding Fathers, Rennie Yater,. The un named shot of the old guy in the shaping room was of Dennis Ryder, who along with Bill Hubbina, started one of the first surf shops in Ventura, (William-Dennis), which still exists today, as Ventura Surf shop.
 Dennis Ryder
Dennis shaped what is probably the first incarnation of the shortboard, when he worked production at Morey-Pope and was doing the McTavish split vee in the 60′s. Having him back in Ventura after living for many years in Hawaii is very cool. One of the best guys around, along with Gene Cooper, and Yater, in terms of craftsmanship. All three live here on California’s Golden Coast
 Gold Rincon
The Tribute involved shaping a replica of a Yater spoon, which aside from a six channel bottom, is probably one of the more difficult designs to build.
Local shapers Todd Proctor, Matt Moore, Dennis Ryder, Wayne Rich and Michel Junod along with Nick Palandrini from Nor Cal, were the invitees.
The shaper who got the nod for doing the best replica of the Spoon was Wayne Rich. That was very cool, since he broke his neck surfing El Cap a few years ago, and almost did not make it back. An incredible come back, when you consider that he shapes surfboards for a living. Surfboard shaping is physically quite arduous, and demands a very high skill level and depth of experience. Master surfboard craftsmen are a dying breed. Quite literally, as the industry has changed so dramatically and the normal cottage industry apprenticeship chain, disappeared years ago.
 Surf Art
There was a hall way formed by two rows of Yaters, and each board had a picture and date on it. Pretty remarkable that Rennie is able to document so much of his and surfing’s past. Just mind blowing. I shaped around 16k surfboards over a 20 year period, and could not even think about accomplishing that. The Surfing Heritage Museum played a large role in this fantastic back marker. The organization had both Curator Barry Haun and head, Dick Metz, on hand the entire week end.
 Dick Metz in the Surf Story Hall
Surf Story by Rob Havassy (two different site links)
The entire second hall at Sacred Craft was about the book Surf Story, and the book tells the story of its own existence pretty well. Most surfers, if they read about what happened, will probably get a bit pissed off. The actual tale goes all the way back to when Abercrombie purloined one of the legendary Leroy Grannis’ images of a bunch of surf icons and used it in an ad campaign. And when the surfers took exception to that, and having their names and likenesses used to promote a company like A&F (and Hollister), were blown off, they sued A&F and forced the issue on an intellectual property rights violation basis. A&F ran a nationwide ad campaign of a monkey holding a surfboard, as their response to surfing and the people who had a large hand in making the sport what it is after the fact. (Got to admire having enough money and humor to do what they did, but it was a very obvious statement about what they really think of you all)
Then, when Rob’s art was taken, and duplicated in similar fashion, he went after them as well. Since A&F was buying somewhere around 10000 mags a month, the surf publishing industry ignored Rob as he sued A&F, not wanting to piss their vendor off. (It appeared as if surf publishing had sold out the sport, by not supporting one of their own, and instead, going with A&F by their silence, in some industry observers opinions)
So the book uses that as a catalyst. Everybody was invited to contribute, as this is the first of a likely series. So the people not IN the book this time around, are conspicuous in their absence. What that means, is they did not want to be in it, or like me, just did not really understand completely what the book was all about.( Rob would have included them.) I had been very busy when Mary Osborne first told me about the book project. I almost did not get my submission in.
Once again, surf publishing sort of ignored Rob, so he wound up self published the biggest, most comprehensive book on surf culture ever. It was both an independent creative statement to surf publishing, and his war to take back our culture from the people who had whored it out, and have a history of contributing little or nothing to the sport’s existence. (Commercial fashion and the rag business)
 Rob's Salute to me for not manning my post
That is the gist of the story on Sacred Craft 2010, from where I stand. But the “lesser details” are rather fascinating. I intend to write about it in greater detail. Or you can simply ask Rob Havassy or Scott Bass.
The Surf Story Hall housed shows-work, from twelve of the books 88 contributors, as well as a phenomenal selection of highest end Yaters, done as a collaboration between Kevin Ancell and Rennie. Many of the artists were on site plying their disciplines live. Pretty remarkable to watch.
Here are a few images from the show. The pleasant looking guy is Craig Peterson, who along with Kevin Naughton, was among the first surf photojournalists- adventurers from the US, and pioneered much at Surfer Magazine. Rob Havassy, Craig and I were along the back wall, side by side. I consider that quite an honor. Glad I returned Rob’s call. I had a lot of stories to share with him.
Here is an addendum of sorts, as he just posted it. Seth Godin’s blog, that is a must read for every artist. Glad that Rob Havassy has this part down.
 Craig Peterson: Pioneer
Get Surf Culture’s book. It is a very profound effort by all. Pure is in short supply these days, and Authenticity is something to be both lauded and supported.
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- Sacred Craft
A child experiencing surfing. Mondos, Ventura California
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- Surf Art
My morning glide watercolor rendition of a Sean Tully turn.
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- Gold Rincon
A classic California Gold Coast Winter's day at Rincon Point, California
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- Rob's Salute to me for not manning my post
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- Craig Peterson: Pioneer
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- Dick Metz in the Surf Story Hall
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- Dennis Ryder
Tags: Barry Haun, California Gold Coast, Craftsmanship, Craig Peterson, David Pu'u, Dennis Ryder, Dick Metz, Ethics, Gene Cooper, Kevin Ancell, Kevin Naughton, Leroy Grannis, Matt Moore, Michel Junod, Rennie Yater, Rincon, Rob Havassey, Sacred Craft, Sacred Craft 2010, Scott Bass, Seth Godin, SHF, situational ethics, Surf Art, surf culture, Surf History, Surf Icons, Surf Publishing, Surf Story, Surf Story Show Ventura, Surfboard Industry, Surfboard shaping, Surfer magazine, surfing heritage foundation, Surfing History, Todd Proctor, Ventura Surf Expo, Ventura Surf Shop, Wayne Rich, William-Dennis Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment »
Thursday, May 21st, 2009
 Connected
Connectedness |kəˈnɛktədnəs| noun
ORIGIN late Middle English (in the sense [be united physically] ; rare before the 18th cent.): from Latin connectere, from con- ‘together’ + nectere ‘bind.’
Drew Kampion, co editor of The Surfers Path, to which I am a long time contributor, had dropped a simple note via the inet clothesline: “Hey I cannot believe you have not met Mark Gray, you two have so much in common. Mark meet Dave, Dave, Mark. He is coming down to Sacred Craft.”
Scott Bass, my friend and colleague from Surfer Magazine has formulated a unique cultural event based around the Surfboard as a cultural anchor in society. I was invited to attend. The event is the antithesis of the industry standard: Action Sports Retailer trade show. For when you walk in the door of one of his shows, you experience surfing itself, not some marketing generated facade of what surfing became after it was prostituted to social death. He calls it Sacred Craft. Brilliant concept.
My son Josh, a neophyte music producer, had told me that he and his younger brother Jon, would be performing at the Good Bar on Main St downtown. He calls his current project, Loves Secret Domain.
Jeanette Ortiz (one of my regular models) is soon leaving to study in Spain. Her Mom has a company called Reigns of Hope which I am going to be shooting this week and needed to do locations work for. Time for a family portrait.
A pal had caught up with me earlier this week and asked, “Hey are you coming to the bike race Saturday?” Bike Race?
I grew up as a surfer in Goleta. Graduating over the years from ruining the floor of my parents garage as I built surfboards for family and friends from the age of 12, to my final exodus out of board building at 40 having built close to 40,000 of the things. I competed and surfed the world as a Santa Barbara based professional surfer and board builder. Roots run deep there. My friends and surf family have literally built the sport and industry.
My other life and world, and where I was allowed and yes, encouraged to be an aggressive type A personality, was in racing, both cars and bikes. I had morphed from competitive swimmer to cyclist at the age of 17 and went into the Olympics Development program. I actually had two fruitful cycling careers where, largely due to my team, the Santa Barbara Bike Club, I won a fair amount. Though I would no more consider racing a bike today than I would paddling out at third reef anywhere in Hawaii, I have a strong affinity for the people and cachet of both worlds.
Mark Gray arrived and due to a depth of life experience and commonality of interests and manner of approach, we had time tripped the weekend away. He recounted exploits in Japan and beyond and I had side barred all over the darned map. Our time together caused a flow back and forth that literally felt as if we had been softly thumbing through the pages of the book of our lives. Two live wires united, for a time.
Connectedness. We could all use a dose. In a time when markets fail, as things may grow increasingly uncertain, being connected is vitality.
A VERY well produced video that espouses and utilizes connectedness is here. It is from FORD. Yes, that’s right!
An excellent blog by Seth Godin on marketing intolerance and connection is here.
Between The Lines, Scott Bass’ and Ty Ponders amazing film on surfers, war and generational connectedness is here.
There are many things which may keep someone from connecting. Life’s trials and tempo, hardship, insecurity, feelings of inadequacy. But the primary element and ultimately a conductant, is to love em all, both those that do, and those that cannot: connect.
Any image in this blog is a tale unto itself. But as a collage it is a stream of consciousness that today flashes like cards being shuffled at the hand of an experienced dealer.
The gallery below is a sampling from the 16 gigs of camera RAW I collected in about 32 hours. Click on any of the images for a full view as well, at what may be a fascinating back story.
Bon Voyage Jeanette. Enjoy Bracelona!
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- Connected
Andy, Jeanette and Marie Ortiz, at Reigns of Hope in Ojai
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- LSD: Josh and Jon
ventura
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- LSD:Nick
ventura
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- LSD: Josh, Eddie and Nick
ventura
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- LSD: Nick
ventura
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- LSD: Josh
ventura
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- Ultimate Boarder booth, Sacred Craft
ventura. UB creator Tim Hoover is from Goleta and was one of our surf shop denizens. Goleta loves Tim, and the sport loves UB.
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- Paul Jenkin
Paul is Environmental Director for the Ventura Surfrider Chapter. If Al Gore won a Pulitzer for his controversial piece on Global Warming, then this man deserves a thousand of them for his tireless, science based efforts to improve his community. Connected. A hero in every sense of the word.
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- Bruce Fowler
Bruce ran Bahne Goleta then Goleta Surf N Wear. He was the inspiration for an entire generation of surfers of which I am one. We worked together for years in board manufacturing till he tried to take out a telephone pole with his head. First time I had seen him in 15 years! Sacred Craft. Connected.
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- Sam George
We have known each other since our early teens when I inadvertently took him out in my first surf contest at Secos. As competitors, colleagues and friends, we have seen a lot together.
Sam is one of the sports best assets and much of my accomplishments in the sport, industry and photography I owe to this great example of flow and enthusiasm.
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- Road Sign: Yater Sacred Craft Booth
Yater, mentor to us all. John Bradbury an inspiring thread and yes, a former glasser. Connected.
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- Dennis Ryder
One of the shapers in the Ventura Based Morey-Pope factory which produced the McTavish split vee, a design thought to be the first shortboard. Dennis walked into my surfboard shop in SB one day as he endeavored to return full time to board building. I told him about the William- Dennis shortboard I had for awhile at the age of 15 in Goleta. He was kind enough to become my laminator and has been my friend ever since. Connected.
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- Shades of Perfection: Yaters
Always the bar in ethics and craftsmanship. Sacred Craft.
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- Gerry Lopez Shaping
Some of my own outline curves and design philosophy are Gerry's via Rich Reed, ex Surfline Hawaii and Lightning Bolt shaper who showed me the virtue of the contrived straight from a Lopez template. Connected. Bobby Martinez won a plethora of National Titles on boards that I shaped him which utilized that concept as part of their design composition. Connected.
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- Randy Cone
I have known Randy since he was 12. One of the most talented to ever come out of Goleta as a surfer, shaper and waterman. We transitioned through it all and he is without a doubt the most opinionated, talented, gifted and closest friend I have had in a lifetime. I snuck up on him as he shaped his difficult draw in the event. A stringerless styro. As I saw him make a turn with the planer I quietly opened the shaping room door and screamed "CONE!" He jumped, then smiled. First time we had seen each other since Mavericks on the cliff a few years back. His Bradbury rendition was FLAWLESS. I checked. Connected.
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- Peter Townend
Competitors, friends, I had always wanted to surf against him as a Pro. So conservative, he was the antithesis of Dave Smith and I's uber radical approach. Never happened till we were old and Masters and I realized mid heat that I truly did not care if I beat him. I sat and watched instead. Responsible in large part for surfing as it is today, in greater depth than I can write here. The black dots on his face? Skin cancers just burned off. His look says it all and is why he is such an asset to surfing. Connected.
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We have all worked with and for each other. Each person on this page.
Then there was John Bradbury. We remember him. He was us. He is us. Connected.
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- Ventura, Adopted home town
Criterium, Ventura Stage Race
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- Peloton: Connectedness
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- Human River
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- Flow Rush
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- Exhuberance
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- Interlacing
Amazing what you get with a 12 MM lens and a pan at 1/30 a second and the subject going 35 MPH. Canon 5DM2
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- Dominance
In a classic tactic this guy went away with five laps to go or thereabouts. One person managed to go with him. He dropped the guy with one lap to go and simply rode away to the win. Confidence, bravado: in racing as in life, you make your own luck. And fortune? Well she frequently favors the brave. A life lesson on a grey Sunday evening.
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- Main Street
Ventura Stage Race
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- Backfocus
Everyone always focuses on the winner. I have been where he is right now a lot. But the true story of the moment is in the dropped rider behind. Hanging on for second. The field sprinters jockeying for a shot at third in the bottom corner. Ventura looking like Europe.
Racing really IS life. This image is my best analogy. I thought about it. Canon 5DM2 and Canon 300MM F2.8 IS lens
Tags: Beach culture, best commercial ever, Canon 300mm F2.8 IS lens, Canon 5D Mark 2, Cultural Event, Dennis Ryder, Drew Kampion, Ford, Gerry Lopez, Jeanette Ortiz, Jon Pu'u, Josh Pu'u, Loves Secret Domain, LSD, Mark Grey, Paul Jenkin, Peter Townend, Randy Cone, Reigns of Hope, Sam George, Scott Bass, Seth Godin, Steve Pezman, Surfboard Industry, Surfer magazine, Surfers Journal, The Surfers Path, ventura, Ventura Chapter Surfrider, Ventura Stage Race Posted in Uncategorized | 10 Comments »
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© 2009 David Pu'u. All rights reserved. |
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