Posts Tagged ‘David Pu’u’

Surfing Is

Tuesday, July 13th, 2010
David Pu'u, Self Expression

David Pu'u, Self Expression

The motivation for this piece began with the publication of the following story in the WSJ, to which I contributed an image of my girlfriend Donna Von Hoesslin. Read the comment section, post story, and you will see a diversity of opinions (including mine) that are quite revelatory about each person’s point of view regarding surfing. Those statements reveal everything about those people’s depth of involvement with the ocean. The commentary engaged me.

I have always been a surfer. At four years of age I knew that goal was what my life would be about. To know the ocean, (and to surf) became my path.

In a lifetime of study and involvement in all things water and ocean related, I learned many things about the ocean that never cease to amaze and moderate me as a human being.

Waterwoman, Hailey Partridge

Waterwoman, Hailey Partridge

Water has got to be the single greatest creative foil for mankind ever. It always wins. (You cannot compress it.) It is alive. Within it, and especially the sea, is contained the genetic signature of all life, which ever existed.

But what I find remarkable, is that as a Hawaiian, my ancestors gifted the sport, and the resulting culture that arose, for reasons many may not readily comprehend. I have long been convinced that surfing and the resulting relationship with the ocean serves to be a mirror of who and what a person is. In it, is a near perfect reflection of everybody’s true compass heading for their lives.

As I document and observe the people involved with the ocean, to me, the depth of every single human being is readily apparent by seeing how they relate to water.

In  a world of people aspiring to be called: surfers, surfriders, eco warriors, watermen, and all manner of ocean branded things, it is readily apparent, what surfing is to those people. You can always tell who really comprehends the ocean,  and whether that person is there to simply use it to brand their movement or maybe just find a means of validating themselves.

Hard to fake it with something so vital and alive as the sea. She always triumphs. Even if her own time frame is an eternal one. It is we who fade into her, and eventually she is us.

Performance as a Mirror of Involvement

Performance as a Mirror of Involvement

Seth Godin was thinking along similar lines today. His Blog.

My ancestors knew exactly what they were doing.

Like the ocean, truth is eternal.

Carmine Rush

Carmine Rush

Best to embrace it.

Fear Anger Hope

Monday, June 21st, 2010
Process

Process

Fear, anger, hope.

These three things are very inter-related and part of the process of progress.

I find myself falling into fear, that entities which we have entrusted, like Government, Industry, and aspects of modern culture, such as certain Environmental PACS, have totally failed the Earth, as evidenced in the recent potential Global killer, that is the Platform Horizon Wellhead Blowout.

The fear generated by this realization leads to an intense burning anger.

That anger causes a hell of a lot of introspection of myself, what I stand for, and a VERY close look at the things I am able to affect in this world, that could contribute to a course change.

In my life, I have always been about social contribution through enlightenment, and understanding of Man’s role in this world via a relationship with God and Nature. In my experience, Science has always proved God, and vice versa. The entire world gives testimony to the glory and power which created it.

So out of all of this examination, there arises amidst the dark swirling clouds of a prior Eon’s birth and death throes, (which MADE the oil which may kill off a substantial portion of our planet) a glimmer of hope within a very serious message of impending doom.

Here is a very close look at the Gulf Disaster . Make sure to watch the News report at it’s end.  Yes, you should be scared, as well as angry. That is a righteous response.

But………..

Below are two links. They will make you sad, they will cause you to fear, you will get angry, feel sorrow, and at the end of it all, a small light will begin to flicker inside. Grab that. The other stuff, it just needs to be experienced, for you to find that little glimmer. We need informed hope.

Story One A beautifully done grand perspective on our struggle to exist.

Story Two is a piece that I shot while working under Cinematographer Greg Huglin. Edited by my friend and colleague Rob Dafoe. I WANT you to ponder the Gulf Sea. Consider also, that this was shot in the waters that I grew up in off of Santa Barbara and the Gaviota Coast. These pods have existed there for ages.

In 1969 I lived in Goleta. I saw the affects of the well head blowout that affected my beach, and gave rise to the modern day environmental movement. I swam, sailed, dove, fished and surfed in an oil soaked ocean, much as the Chumash who inhabited my home, generations before had done. But I am convinced what I experienced, was far worse in terms of oil contact. It went on for decades. (Think about that.)

The tale of the 1969 Union platform blowout is here.

A couple weeks ago, I was up working on the Gaviota Coast. Beaches once soaked in oil were now clean. For the first time in my 50 year long life, and possibly ever, they were pristine in appearance. I suspect that the Environmental movement had nothing to do with this, nor did the EPA. The steady pumping of the reserve simply lowered the pressure, and both the issues from the old wellhead blowout, and natural seeps, slowed to their lowest point.

I shot a few images to illustrate Man’s relationship with the coastline that has been my home. When I get angry, part of my process is to create something positive. Jeanette Ortiz, who is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful and connected human beings that I know, collaborated with me. Donna Von Hoesslin helped style the work. The four images in this post, are part of a 24 image collection we created as an homage to the Gaviota Coastline.

Organic Relationship

Organic Relationship

Now ponder this. We have drilled a hole into the past, and unleashed a geologically based poison into the Gulf waters. All of what we know and have done in the past may now be ineffective. We could be wrong about everything. Our Govt. agencies are wrong, our environmental groups are wrong, we were wrong. Wrong about what?

Our choice to disconnect our culture from God and subvert our role in creation. We placed commerce and money in the position of being our God. We cut ourselves off from Wisdom and Truth. Wrong choice.

Timeframe

Timeframe

Reconnect. It is where the hope lies.

Here is a beautiful invitation to do that.

Better

Better

Here is a piece on Jacques Yves Cousteau , that is probably one of the more succinct and pertinent instructionals which I have read, with regard to Politics and the Earth.

Broken Bells. Good name. Sobering social commentary, exquisitely produced.

Steady on.

Hope.

ID Please

Thursday, June 10th, 2010
Who Are You?

Who Are You?

In marketing, one of the principal rules, is to identify the product in the eyes of the market.

I am often introduced as a surf photographer. It is not that I eschew the title, which truly makes me die inside at the proffering of that description.  Someone inevitably must endeavor to communicate what indeed it is, that one shoots. I do shoot surfing. I love the ocean. Surfing professionally was something that I was proud to have done for a substantial portion of my life, as it kept me IN the sea daily. But that is not what I am. I am truly not a surf photographer.

So those who know me, found it not that big a surprise when I started shooting empty waves. It was a sociological reason to be in the water that could conceivably lead to something related to making a living. Yea right? Right. Huge long shot. Not likely to amount to a fiscally viable career.  Think about it. If someone stood before you, and held out an archaic plastic box, with a camera and one lens in it and said: “I am going to swim out to sea as often as I can, and in as many places as I am able, for X number of years and make a living, what would you say to that person? (Insert suggestions for medical and psychological care here)

But that is what I did. No one was doing wave work much at the time. Preiss was not. Woody was gone, Greenough was doing dolphins.  It seemed to make sense, in a  round about way to me. I love the water. Off I swam, clickety click, day after day, alone. I would rise in the wee hours, prep my lone camera and housing. Wander down to the beach. Pull on cold rubber in the dark, and as the eastern horizon began to brighten, swim out. Fun times. Enlightening.

Not too much later, I was in the offices of Corbis Images, Los Angeles, having taken a few months time, and organized some slide books and been accepted into that agency’s ranks. Corbis used to hold regular gatherings for its Photographers. We would be tutored in all things photography related by the best people in the business, surrounded by again, the best photographers in the business. People that shot all manner of styles and subjects.

Driveway Toolbox

Driveway Toolbox

At this particular gathering, the entire day was dedicated to creativity. As I sat in our second gathering of that morning, along with approximately 200 of the best shooters in the world, we listened to someone who today, would be doing what has come to be known as a TED talk. (here is a good one) Her subject was creativity.

One statement stood out for me as being the starting gun for my fledgeling career. She said: ” If there is any one thing that I could tell you to do that would guarantee your success, this is it: learn to image your emotions.” Those simple words hit me like phosphorescent, shining, drops of brilliance. My mind instantly expanded and I saw my potential.  And then she stopped.

Corbis VP at the time, Steve Davis, stood up. In essence, he said this (paraphrased). “You all can shoot any subject in the world, and Corbis will help you do it. Anything! But choose wisely, because what you engage, will become your life and what you will be known for. The room was silent. Two hundred of the world’s best, all got it.

In the ensuing years, I shot things that I had empathy for.

empathy |ˈempəθē|
noun
the ability to understand and share the feelings of another.

This week I turned in imagery for an agency in Europe. They had thought I was as surf photographer. The Art Director received approximately 500 images that comprised 30 different subjects. Ten of those were water related. One was surfing. Those 500 pieces are part of a 350,000 image library.

As I look across its ever increasing capture of bright moments, this is what I learned.

That I cared.

One must.

That is what I am:  someone who cares.

Beginnings

Beginnings

Connection

Connection

Elements: Blood to Bone

Monday, May 24th, 2010
Air to Water

Air to Water

Water and air. Air and water. Blood to bone. Flesh of one’s own.

The uninitiate fascinate over the sea and the creatures in it. But for a surfer, the relationship is one of kindred spirit. “Oh yes, that is”: insert marvelously made marine entity, referred to casually by those in the water tribe, in similar manner to someone whose house you wake up in each day, HERE.

Blood to Water

Blood to Water

Dolphins live a life immersed. Yet linked to air, they have little issue being up and around in it. I see them fly a lot. No doubt exists, in spite of a lack of verbal discussion between us, on that very obvious point of connection.

As surfers we live a life in air, to dip in a mirrored justaposition to our dolphin kin. Kin you ask?

Saline Soliloquy

Saline Soliloquy

At what point do animal and man become related?

Blood to bone to flesh. Salt water connects us all.

Sublime in flow.

Not alone.

One.

One

One

Modus: Light and Water

Wednesday, May 19th, 2010
Joe Curren

Joe Curren

“How many shots did it take to acquire this one?” It is a good question. I hear it a lot. Here is how it works…

Learn your craft. Buy the right camera and lens setup. Build-acquire the housing. Figure out optics in water. Watch weather.  Select a swell, tide, surf break, weather pattern with the correct potential combination. Wake at 4 am,

Tools

Tools

Prep your gear. Have a little coffee, but not too much because you do not want to pee in your wetsuit during morning feeding hour, and sharks feel the charge from your camera body and sometimes come for a look. Curious cats, they usually lurk outside of view. But not always.

 The Lavender Fields

The Lavender Fields

Pull on wetsuit and fins, in the cold offshore darkness. Step into grey-black water, as the light comes up on the eastern horizon. Feel the cold rush, as you swim under the first line of whitewater.  Tend to the port on the housing and protect your gear as you try to avoid a beat down. Then, outside the surfline, you find the peak you think exists, and not unlike surfing, you stalk your wave. The light is good for ten minutes, optimal for ten minutes and average for about a half hour after that, but you stay out for hours, making that 36 frame roll of film last, because that is what you do.

Dan Malloy

Dan Malloy

The really intriguing part is just being there. You never want that to end.

Editor Jeff Divine once asked: “Do ever shoot anything not during golden hour?”

“Only if I have to Jeff”

Benchmark

Benchmark

Though I am a big proponent of contemporary digital capture, I have to admit that I do not use the motordrive or the near unlimited load that exists now, with big storage memory cards. Quantity does nothing for me, in acquiring the things that I do. Planning, persistence and passion do.  So the game is pretty much the same. All of these images are film captures. Just what I was working on this week, as I created something for a project.

It is all about light, and water, vision and persistence.

Larry Ugale

Larry Ugale

The funny thing for me, is that although I am continually surprised at what I find in my stills files, I shot all of these same subjects in motion picture. An older cross section of that work is contained here. I need to build some new reels. Time…….passes.

All of this requires effort. Seth Godin examines the subject here.

© 2009 David Pu'u. All rights reserved.

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