Blog

The Gift

It is Christmas Eve 2009. Christmas means a lot of different things to many people. The transformative and renewing aspects of the holiday have always

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Swell 4

The latest in our wave makers arrived innocuously enough with a soft and barely perceptible pulse arriving late in the evening. I had watched the

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Swell 3

Just when we all thought we were safe and no more responsibilities would be shirked, the life of the California based surf community turned on

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Rinse and Repeat

I have had to watch weather a bit more closely than I usually would this season, because Garrett MacNamara, K38 Rescue, and a few other

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Repose

Our lives are a lot like that of a wave, in how we roll through the sea of life, in an ocean of existence, headed

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A Fall Fantasy

Nothing deep to share. Or is there? The past weeks have allowed me a lot of time and effort to delve into what many consider

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